Yesterday, my friend Jen Holcomb and I went out for a summer surf in October. These are the boards we rode….
It’s strange, I’ve been thinking almost non-stop about Terry Martin over the past few weeks. It has also seemed like every time I have gone longboarding on “The Red Terry”, I have felt like he has been out in the water surfing with me. His calm gentle presence keeping me in tune with the calm gentle waves. I can hear his chiming laugh, feel his kind heart, I swear I can hear the rhythmic sounds of his shaping… mostly, though, what I feel most is his reminder not to lose your soul in the process of trying to gain the world. Have priority. Find your gift and share it. “We are really capable of doing a whole lot more than we do most of the time…”
Terry made boards for anyone and everyone. The best surfers in the world, and the brand new beginner who just fell in love with the sea. He made them to be ridden. He made them so you and I could have fun. He shared his gift openly with us, so we could feel the pure joy of sliding down a wave. All shapers share this trait. They made you a toy to goof around with. If you have a Terry Martin, a Midget Smith, a Dale Velzy, a Dewey Webber, a Hobie Alter, a Dick Brewer, a Gary Larson, a Dan Boehne, a Timmy Patterson, if you have a board that your buddy just made you out of his garage and it’s his first one…if you have a Gerry Lopez hanging on the wall in your office, wax it up. If you are lucky enough to be able to stand on the edge of the ocean and you have a board made by a master craftsman or a master craftsman in training… put it in the water. It was made to be ridden, and it was made just for you to ride. There is no better time than today… get it wet, and ride ’em if you got ’em. We are so lucky to be surfers. We are so so so lucky.