The following is the true story of how every surfer ever in the history of forever overpacks when they have a day off on a work day, the water is still warm, there is swell, and they are meeting a buddy at Four Doors….
Thursday 8:56pm… Text between Bucky Barry and I.
U gonna be at SanO tomorrow?
Not sure yet… I’m off, are you going down?
Yea alllll day!
Yep! I’m bringing the timmy, uncle buck, shortstick, beater… haha maybe if I get bored I’ll come SUP it up with you too.
Nice.. I’ll bring my red Terry, beater, and funboard… and I’ll throw in an extra SUP and paddle for you too.
yea, do it. Park at 4 doors, look for my van.. if I’m not there, I’m in the water. Jump out n log first, then charge to SUP when the tide gets too high…
I need all the tide I can get… I’m a grandma at getting up.. the fatter the tide and slower the wave the better. haha.. not really kidding tho.. see you in the morning
Coffee drank. Snacks for day packed. Four different wetsuits packed. Four bikinis packed. Two towels packed. Sunscreen, hat, becah chair, tabloid magazine, phone, and camera packed.
Now… the board selection process begins…
Defiantly gotta bring the 9’4″ noserider by Terry Martin, that is a given. I said I’d bring the Beater, so that is in. I’ll put the two SUPs, one for me and one for Bucky, on the racks up top on my pick up and I’ll throw the paddles in the cab… I should probably throw in the 9’2″ Fusion Gary Larson made, just in case it gets fast. I can put the 8′ stringerless 25″ wide funbaordy thing MJ made on top of the two long’s, that should be crazy fun at the high tide… hmmmm.. it might get hot, I better stick the easy up in too. Shoot, I should call Andy Cowell and see if he wants to cruise too, dang, that’s right he has to open the shop. Ohhh… but I should call him and see if I can borrow that Poacher he designed.. 6’10” and paddles like a longboard. That could be fun. Snap. I should bring the Waterhawk and fins, I can use the fins, swim out and take pics of Buck surfing.. Awwww, even better.. TANDEM!!! I can throw the 10’6″ SUP on top,under the other two SUPs, that way Buck and I can tandem surf that thing… so fun. Ok, sick, the quiver for the day is decided… 3 SUPs, 2 longboards, a Beater, a Funboard, a Poacher, a Waterhawk and some fins… let’s pack it up…
Get to Four Doors, remove 9’4″ red Terry Martin noserider. Surf with Bucky for 3 hours. Sit on beach, snack and bs for another 3 hours. Paddle back out, surf same Terry board again for second session. Remove nothing else from the truck besides a towel. Go back home unload “rolling surf shop” vow to only pack one board from now on.