Hobie Surf: Dawn Patrol

Dawn Patrol…

Crisp Foggy Dawn at SanO.. April 17, 2012 at 7am

5:30am alarm goes off

hit snooze

5:39am alarm goes off again, silently wonder why snooze is 9 minutes instead of 10.

hit snooze

5:48am alarm goes off, roll eyes, make general internal statement about “stupid surfing”

get up

step on frozen floor, immediately regret not hitting snooze again.

trip over cat

apologize to cat while reminding him he was under your feet

scratch cat under chin to avoid further attempts on your life

make coffee

say morning prayer thanking God for coffee, but asking him if he could send winning lotto numbers so you didn’t have to work and could surf at a civilized time

drink coffee

say second prayer letting God know you were just joking about the whole lotto thing

text surf buddy

assure friend you are packing truck right now and will bring spare leash

pack truck

wave to neighbors on their way to work, weird that they aren’t smiling back

truck packed with 5 extra minutes before having to be on road to meet surf buddy

lay back down

get woken up by multi text from friend at beach waiting

jump in truck get on 5 Freeway South heading to SanO

get off at Christianitos, make dramatic U-turn onto 5 North

get back home to get forgotten leash for surf buddy, loudly curse “stupid surfing”

trip over cat

make mental note to get cat a collar with a bell on it

arrive at gate for SanO

wave to guard and read surf report sign

eyes laser focus on water temp of 53 degrees

look in backseat for booties, check

drive down road craning neck to look at churches

forget about giant pot holes, almost lose front axel

park next to fully wetsuited surf buddy, hmmm she looks a little testy

shut off truck at the crack of 7

surf buddy reminds me that dawn is actually at 6

shake out wetsuit

still wet from yesterday

curse “stupid wetsuits”; struggle to get it on

step on sharp rock

curse “stupid sharp rocks”; wonder aloud about paving the whole road in a nice coat of cement

bunny throws shade at me and hops back into the “nature”

get to the edge of the water

kick frozen boulder with piggy toe, lose balance

fall in 6 inches of water, ding rail of board

remember booties in truck, curse “stupid booties”

paddle out

paddle into beautiful glassy early morning wave

purl board

take the next 6 beautiful glassy early morning waves on the head

get ice cream headache

curse “stupid cold water”

paddle successfully into beautiful glassy early morning wave

get snaked

straighten board out and fall in whitewater

take chip out of center fin

paddle around for next hour or so alternately catching waves and chatting with buddies

check time, realize that you are already supposed to be in your office

ocean goes completely flat for next twenty minutes

resolve to do the “paddle of shame” and just head in

make it to the impact zone when a set of perfect head high bombs comes through

take everyone on the head

catch whitewater on belly in

hit patch of kelp, launch off front of board

stand up under board, rub new knot on your head

get out of water after kicking frozen boulder with your other piggy toe

forget to take off leash, trip over it

ding other rail

shower off and de-wetsuit

step on another sharp rock

curse “stupid sharp rocks”

repack truck, only late for office by 30 minutes

get text from buddy who flaked on Dawn Patrol asking how it was

text back “It was ALL TIME, you missed it!!”

-Tracey Engelking


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